Kekoldi Indigenous Territory
Get to know this BriBri Indigenous Territory, located just 15 minutes from Puerto Viejo. Although there is no “central” village you’ll pass by typical homes, a bird-viewing station where the annual bird count takes place, the iguana project, the cultural center and the scientific center, or spend a bit more time and hike to the impressive waterfall or through a private reserve and traditional farm the buffers the Indigenous Territory.
This 5,000+ hectare reserve is part of the Talamanca-Caribbean Biological Corridor, more than 36,000 hectares of land under protection. KèköLdi is a mosaic of primary and secondary forests, abandoned cacao plantations and private farms. While there is no central “village” you’ll pass by traditionally built indigenous homes, a bird-viewing towers, or stop to enjoy a traditional lunch with a family. Learn about Bribrí culture, history and use of the forest. Wear yourself out with a hike to the impressive waterfall. Check out the iguana project and the “Basket House” where Indigenous crafts are sold.
Tour of the Iguana Farm
Tour the Iguana Farm, learn a bit of folklore & nature, hike a short trail around the Reserve.
About 3 hours
Upon arrival, you be will welcomed by one of our local guides who will tell you about the Bribri Indigenous Territory, Kèköldi, and about the research project for the reproduction of the iguana verde (Iguana iguana), an initiative of the community since 1990. Then, you will be taken through the Striut trail (Cacao Bribri) in the tropical forest and learn about the importance of different species of flora and fauna for his ancestors and those still used today by the locals. Your guide will tell you interesting mythological stories from the Bribri culture and the special connection of the people with the nature that surrounds them. At the end of the trail we will take time to look at the beautiful handicrafts made in the community.
Price $20 about 3 hours
Overview of the Territory
The iguana project, bird viewing station, community center, scientific center, interpretive hike.
About 5 hours
At the beginning of the trail, our local guide will tell you about the Bribri Indigenous Territory and about the research project for the reproduction of the iguana verde (Iguana Iguana), providing you information about the species reproduction process. Next, you will walk through secondary tropical forest, where you have the chance to observe different flora species, mainly palm trees, cocoa and fast growing trees as the Jabillo and Jobo. On a slow climb into the mountain, you will be introduced to many species of trees such as the Pilon, Almendro de Montana, Níspero and Ceibo present in the primary tropical forest. You may observe Congo and White Faced Monkeys, Iguanas, Leaf Cutter Ants and several unique bird and plant species.
The guide will then take you to the highest point, approximately 220 m. above sea level, where a tower was built especially to observe the raptor migration which takes place just twice a year: from September to November and from February to May. During the peak of the season, it is possible to count thousands of birds of prey in one single day. From this observation point we will also discover the outstanding scenery of the Talamanca mountains, Panama and the coastal zone with a beautiful view of Puerto Viejo, Puerto Limon and Uvita island. After enjoying a typical lunch, we will then walk down towards the reserve’s main entrance where you will be invited to shop for local handicrafts made by members of the local community.
Price $25 about 4 or 5 hours
Chimuri Reserve and KèköLdi
Tour a typical Talamancan farm tasting the in-season fruit and bird watching, hike this private forest reserve (a buffer zone to the KèköLdi Reserve,) wander into KèköLdi and check out the bird watching tower, if you have time stop and support the iguana reintroduction project and pick up a souvenir at the “basket house”.
About 6 hours.
The starting point for this hike is the private reserve called “Chimuri.” Chimuri private reserve serves as an important buffer zone to the KèköLdi Indigenous Reserve—adding to this critical biological corridor.
On this (approximately) 7 hour walk you’ll have the opportunity to taste in-season tropical fruits that you may never have even heard of before—mammon chino; a beautiful spiky red fruit, the Creole lime, the mangostan, the Columbian zapote, the custard-like biribá, and homegrown starfruit grapefruit, pineapple or Banana—ask your guide about the banana industry and you’ll never eat a commercially grown banana again.
You’ll trek through traditional Indigenous farms where the cacao (chocolate) trees growing beneath the canopy of the towering rainforest trees and pejiballe palms. You’ll pass through primary and secondary rainforests and little patches where organic bananas, yucca, and yam grow.
Throughout the walk, you’ll encounter and learn about medicinal plants used traditionally by indigenous folks and fruits, plants and wild edible fruits that have been part of the indigenous diet since ancient times. Your guide shares his wide array of knowledge of his ancestors, their traditions, daily life and the mythology of the BriBri People.
See the traditional materials used in construction of the traditional houses (ranchitos), the leaves used for roofing, the specific palms used for the walls and flooring, the woods and the vines used to bring the building together.
It is possible to run across at any moment a coati, an armadillo, a sloth, or a monkey, the tracks of any of these animals or a big cat. Will you be lucky enough to run across one of Talamanca’s colorful snakes? An abundance of birds are always around; toucans, magpies, aricaris, tanagers, humming birds, parrots or with luck a jungle turkey.
Poison dart frogs, exotic insects and other reptiles hide in the under story as well.
This tour takes you to the 200 meter tall bird observation tower in the heart of the KèköLdi reserve where we can see the marvelous view across the Talamancan Mountain Range, to Panama and to the Caribbean Sea.
This very part of Costa Rica is the world’s second most important migratory path for the migratory raptors. During the raptor migration months we can observe 1000’s of migratory hawks, vultures, falcons, etc.
This guide is one of ATEC’s founding members, an active participant in protection and conservation of Talamanca’s culture and nature, a fabulous story-teller and a treasure to our community.
Price $36 about 6 hours
Hike to Waterfall
Pass the bird viewing station, the community center, the scientific center, on a strenuous interpretive hike to an amazing waterfall.
About 8 hours
Enjoy the same information included in the “B” Tour: “Overview of KèköLdi”, with your final destination a beautiful waterfall in the KèköLdi Indigenous Reserve. Be prepared for a muddy, intense hike and fun in the water!
Price $36 about 8-9-10 hours
Lunch at the Scientific Center
Add a typical Indigenous lunch to any of the above tours. Lunch usually consists of typical root vegetables, in season fruit, real “home made” hot chocolate, ripe plantain, traditionally prepared smoked chicken served on a banana leaf. With juice from in-season fruit.
Price $6
Scientific Center
Spend the night in the heart of the reserve. Includes 3 meals & lodging
Stick around for a while and stay at Kèkoldi’s newly constructed lodge in the heart of the reserve.
Price $25 per night includes 3 meals and lodging.
Field Study Programs and Courses**
from two weeks
At the Kèköldi Scientific Center we are honored to offer courses in bird conservation, bird banding techniques, raptor migration as well as many other customizable options. Complete packages with in-country transportation, local instructors, and food and lodging services are available. Our packages may include visits to other nearby community initiatives. We would like to help make your group experience truly unforgettable. Because these services are offered directly from the Kèköldi Wak ka Köneke Association, all proceeds stay at the local level!
available from $380 for 2 weeks.
Intensive Bird Banding Training Course
3 weeks at the Kèköldi Scientific Center
Includes all lodging and meals on site.
$800 (price is valid for up to 4 weeks stay); additional weeks are $100/week
Raptor Migration Counters, Volunteer Position
1 month at the Kèköldi Scientific Center
Includes all lodging and meals on site.
$600 (price is valid for up to 4 weeks stay); additional weeks are $100/week
Got to http://www.kekoldi.org to sign up for these packages.
Learn More:
The People
Cultural Diversity: Talamanca, located on the South Caribbean Coast, is Costa Rica’s most ethnically diverse canton (county). Our population is composed of native BriBrí and Cabecar, as well as Afro-Caribbean and Latin peoples, along with residents from some 40 different nations.
The BriBrí and Cabécar
Sibö made the first Indigenous people from seeds of corn. He brought the seeds from a place called /suLa’kaska/, which means the place of destiny. From there Sibö brought corn seeds of all different colors: black, white, yellow, purple. That is why Indigenous people have different skin colors and tones. Sibö brought the seeds to the world by night. We were not born in the day; we were born by night. That is why the /awapa/ (shaman) chant and do their curing ceremonies at night.
From: Taking Care of Sibö’s Gifts, p.31
The BriBrí and Cabecar people of the Talamanca now speak Spanish, wear western clothes, and participate in regional political and economic life. However, even with so much contact with outsiders their religious ceremonies, ancient traditions, and oral histories continue to be passed on from generation to generation. Through various grand success stories in sustainable eco-tourism, many BriBrí and Cabecar communities are again teaching their youth to speak the languages of their ancestors.
BriBrí and Cabécar people believe that Sibö created all things on Earth, and that all things have supernatural guardians. These guardians permit human beings to kill wild animals and use forest products only as necessary for human subsistence. Through traditional practices of shifting agriculture (corn, beans, plantain, rice and peach palms or pejibaye), hunting (tapir, iguanas, pacas, agouti, peccaries, deer), fishing, and using forest products, the BriBrí and Cabécar have maintained a respectful relationship with their natural environment. Many are working to protect the remaining forests in their reserves from exploitation and destruction, such as within the KèköLdi Reserve, where, since 1991, the community has been working on a program breeding endangered green iguanas to release into the wild. See page 39 for a description of visit to KèköLdi.
Just 1.7 percent of the Costa Rican population is of Indigenous descent. The national census of 2000 identified for the first time the count of 63,876 Indigenous people living in Costa Rica. The BriBrí and Cabécar who live within the Talamanca are the most numerous Indigenous populations in Costa Rica. They live in three main reserves. The Talamanca-BriBrí Reserve and the Talamanca-Cabécar Reserve cover large areas of the interior Talamanca Mountains, and the KèköLdi Reserve is smaller and just inland from Puerto Viejo. These reserves were created in 1977 following the adoption of the Indigenous Act by the Costa Rican government, giving the country’s Indigenous people the right to live within self-governed communities. However, the government retains the land titles to these territories. As with any private lands, access to the reserves is limited. Those who wish to visit may do so with a guide who is from the reserve or those who seek prior permission from reserve associations.
In the Talamanca forests, Indigenous people found palm trees (Iriartea gigantean, Socratea durissima) whose outer bark provided the building material for their houses; palm leaves (Geonoma cuniatia, Raphia sp) to weave thatched roofs; and sturdy vines (Anthurium scandens Aubl) that substituted for nails in construction. Many Indigenous people continue to live in thatch-roofed houses built entirely from forest products. Through secret ceremonies passed down through the generations, Indigenous shamans (/awapa/ in BriBrí) cure illnesses, employing medicinal plants and sacred stones (/sia/ in BriBrí).
Paula Palmer, Juanita Sánchez, and Gloria Mayorga published a book called Taking Care of Sibö’s Gifts, which gives much more information of the life and history of the BriBrí people. The book is currently out of print but if you are interested, you can come sit on ATEC’s porch and look through a copy.
